Clothing Care – Wild West Wears

Leather and suede don't ask for much. But what they do ask for, they ask for consistently. A jacket that gets proper attention after a hard season will outlast one that gets occasional panic-cleaning by years. These guidelines cover everything we sell — full-grain leather, distressed leather, suede, shearling, and patent finishes.

Full-Grain & Smooth Leather

Full-grain leather is dense and durable, but it's not indestructible. The hide absorbs what it's exposed to — moisture, salt, body oils, UV light — and how you respond to that determines how the piece ages.

Conditioning is the single most important thing you can do. Apply a leather conditioner every three to six months, or more frequently if you wear the piece hard or live in a dry climate. Work it in with a clean cloth using circular motions, let it absorb fully, then buff off the excess. Don't over-apply — leather that's over-conditioned gets soft in the wrong way and loses its structure.

Cleaning should start with a dry cloth for surface dust and dirt. For deeper cleaning, use a damp cloth with a small amount of leather soap. Never soak the leather, never use household cleaners, and never put it near a heat source to dry. Let it air dry at room temperature, away from direct sunlight.

Water damage happens, but it doesn't have to be permanent. If the jacket gets caught in rain, shake off the excess, reshape it by hand, and let it dry naturally. Once dry, condition it. Applying heat to wet leather — from a dryer, radiator, or even a sunny windowsill — will crack the hide.

Distressed & Vintage-Finish Leather

Distressed leather is already part of the way through a natural aging process. That finish took time to achieve, and harsh cleaning will strip it. Use a dry or barely damp cloth for cleaning, and choose a conditioner formulated for antique or pull-up leather. Avoid wax-based products unless you know they won't shift the color — test any new product on a hidden seam or inner panel first.

Scratches and scuffs on distressed leather are largely self-healing. Light rubbing with your thumb or a soft cloth generates enough warmth to work minor marks back in. That's part of what distressed leather does. Deep cuts are a different matter — a leather repair kit can fill them, but accept that the piece will carry its history either way.

Suede

Suede needs different handling than smooth leather. It's more porous, more sensitive to moisture, and easier to mark permanently if you're not careful.

Brushing is routine maintenance. A suede brush, used in one direction, lifts the nap and removes dry surface dirt before it works its way in. Do this regularly rather than waiting for visible buildup.

Water and suede don't get along well. If the jacket gets wet, let it dry naturally and brush once dry to restore the nap. For protection, apply a suede-specific waterproofing spray before the first wear and reapply seasonally. It won't make suede waterproof, but it buys you time.

Stains on suede require patience. Let liquid stains dry completely before attempting anything — rubbing a wet suede stain spreads it. Once dry, use a suede eraser on the spot, then brush. Oil stains are harder; a small amount of cornstarch left overnight to absorb the oil, then brushed away, is a reasonable first step. If the stain is set or significant, a professional leather cleaner is the right call.

Never use water, saddle soap, or general leather conditioner on suede. They'll flatten the nap and can leave permanent watermarks.

Shearling

Shearling pieces have two surfaces that need separate attention. The leather exterior follows the same conditioning rules as smooth leather. The wool interior is different.

Shake out the wool regularly to prevent flattening. If it gets dirty, spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap, working gently. Don't saturate it. Let it air dry completely before wearing or storing — trapped moisture in wool creates odor and, over time, breakdown of the fibers.

Shearling should never go in a washing machine or dryer.

Patent Leather

Patent leather is the lowest-maintenance surface we carry. It doesn't need conditioning and doesn't absorb products the way full-grain does. A soft, dry cloth is usually all that's needed to wipe it clean. For fingerprints or smudges, a slightly damp cloth followed by a dry buff works well.

Keep patent leather away from other leather pieces during storage. The finish can transfer onto adjacent surfaces, particularly in heat.

Storage

How you store leather matters as much as how you clean it. A few consistent habits go a long way.

Hang jackets and coats on wide, padded hangers. Wire hangers distort the shoulder over time.
Store in a breathable garment bag — cotton or canvas, not plastic. Plastic traps moisture and can cause the leather to mildew.
Keep leather away from direct sunlight and heat sources during storage. Both dry out the hide and fade the color.
Never compress leather for long periods. Folding a jacket into a drawer or packing it tightly in a suitcase for extended storage will crease the hide permanently.
Stuff the body and sleeves loosely with acid-free tissue paper if storing for a season or more. It holds the shape without stressing the leather.

Hardware

The buckles, snaps, conchos, and zippers on our pieces are functional details, not decoration. Keep them clean with a dry cloth. For tarnished antique brass hardware, a small amount of brass polish on a cloth — applied carefully to avoid contact with the surrounding leather — will restore the finish. YKK zippers can be kept running smoothly with a small amount of beeswax or a purpose-made zipper lubricant run along the teeth.

General Rules

Leather doesn't need to be babied, but it responds to attention. A jacket worn regularly and cared for properly develops a patina over years that a neglected one never will. If something goes wrong — a deep stain, significant water damage, a torn lining — take it to a professional leather repair specialist rather than attempting a fix that risks making it permanent.